Understanding Dog Food Labels: A Simple UK Guide

Dog food labels can feel like a foreign language — full of confusing ingredients, mysterious percentages, and marketing buzzwords. But if you know what to look for, they become a powerful tool to help you choose better nutrition for your dog.

This guide will break it all down into simple, easy-to-understand parts. No jargon, no fluff — just what matters most.

What Dog Food Labels Legally Need to Include in the UK

In the UK, dog food labels must follow strict guidelines set by FEDIAF (The European Pet Food Industry Federation). By law, packaging must include:

– Product name
– Ingredients list (in descending order by weight)
– Analytical constituents (also known as the “guaranteed analysis”)
– Additives (nutritional and technological)
– Feeding guidelines
– Manufacturer’s contact details
– Best before date and batch number
– Net weight

Quick Tip

If a dog food doesn’t display all of this information clearly — be cautious.

Decoding the Ingredients List

Ingredients are listed from heaviest to lightest before cooking. This is important because:

Fresh meats include a lot of water and will weigh more than dry ingredients, even though they shrink when cooked.
Named meats (like “chicken” or “lamb”) are more trustworthy than vague terms like “meat and animal derivatives.”
Animal derivatives can legally include beaks, feathers, and feet — not ideal.
Meal (e.g. chicken meal) is a concentrated protein powder and isn’t inherently bad — it’s just dry, cooked meat.

What You Want To See

Clearly named meat sources in the top 3 ingredients (e.g. “chicken,” “salmon,” “beef”)
Whole grains, sweet potato, vegetables or fruits
Limited use of preservatives or artificial colourings
Oils listed as “salmon oil” or “chicken fat” rather than just “animal fat”

Avoid

Vague terms like “meat derivatives”
Catch-all phrases like “animal by-products”
Long lists of chemical-sounding additives

Analytical Constituents: What the Numbers Mean

This section is like the nutritional breakdown. It usually includes:

Crude protein – Needed for muscle repair and growth
Crude fat – Provides energy and supports skin/coat
Crude fibre – Supports digestion
Ash – Represents mineral content (not burnt residue!)
Moisture – Often only shown in wet food

What Numbers Should You Be Looking For? These values vary by life stage, breed, and energy level, but as a general rule:

Nutrient	Dry Food (Typical %)	Wet Food (Typical %)	Why It Matters
Crude Protein	22-30%	6-10%	Essential for muscle development, immune health, and groth. Puppies need more.
Crude Fat	8-18%	4-8%	Provides energy and supports skin, coat, and hormone health. Too much = weight gain.
Crude Fibre	2-5%	0.5-2%	Aids digestion and stool quality. Too much can limit nutrient absorption.
Ash	5-8%	1-3%	Reflects total mineral content (calcium, phosphorus, etc.) Too high can indicate fillers.
Moisture	8-12%	70-80%	Important in wet food. Helps hydrations but lowers nutrient density per gram.

Quick Tip

More protein is not always better — balance matters. Ultra-high protein with low-quality fat or fibre can cause digestive upset.

Additives & Supplements

There are two types:

Nutritional additives – These include vitamins, minerals, and amino acids added to ensure the food is complete.
Technological additives – These include preservatives, antioxidants, and stabilisers that help shelf life or consistency.

Not all additives are bad — but they should be clearly listed. Watch out for:

BHA/BHT – Artificial preservatives linked to health concerns (choose foods with natural alternatives like tocopherols)
Unclear labels – Avoid if additives aren’t properly named.

Common Marketing Claims (And What They Really Mean)

Pet food packaging is often full of bold claims — here’s what they actually mean:

Complete: This means the food has all required nutrients for daily feeding. (Always look for this!)
Complementary: Not nutritionally balanced — often treats or mixers.
Hypoallergenic: No legal definition — it usually just means no common allergens like beef, wheat, or dairy.
Grain-free: Useful for some dogs, but not always necessary. Grain isn’t bad unless your dog is intolerant.
Veterinary approved: May not mean the food is vet-formulated or independently tested.
Human grade: Often used in marketing, but the full process (not just the ingredients) must meet human food standards for it to mean anything.

Quick Tip

Focus on facts — not fluffy marketing terms.

Feeding Guidelines: How Useful Are They?

Feeding guides on the back of the pack give you a starting point — not an exact science.

Use them to estimate how much to feed based on your dog’s weight.
Adjust based on activity level, age, breed, and metabolism.
Always monitor body condition and consult your vet if unsure.

Quick Tip

If your dog is gaining or losing weight, tweak portion size accordingly and assess body shape regularly.

Red Flags to Watch Out For

Be wary if you spot any of the following:

Super vague ingredients like “meat” or “animal derivatives”
Long lists of unrecognisable chemical additives
No named protein source in the top 3 ingredients
Labels missing essential information
Claims that sound too good to be true (“cures allergies!”)

Final Thoughts

Understanding your dog’s food label isn’t just about being fussy — it’s about making informed, healthy choices. Always look for clarity, quality, and completeness. If a brand feels like it’s hiding something, it probably is.

Quick Tip: Bookmark your favourite trusted brands and regularly check for formula changes — even “trusted” foods occasionally switch up ingredients.